The west is the postcard: Kelingking Cliff with its T-Rex headland, Broken Beach and Angel's Billabong within a short drive of each other, Crystal Bay for the end of the day. If you have seen one photograph of Nusa Penida, it was taken here.

The east is quieter and steeper: Diamond Beach and Atuh Beach sit below long stair descents, with the Tree House on the cliff above them and Giri Putri Cave Temple inland. Fewer crowds, more climbing.

The water is a different trip again. Manta Bay is the reason most people snorkel here — manta rays feed at a cleaning station just off the cliffs — with Gamat Bay, Crystal Bay and Wall Bay making up the rest of the day.

Only one day and you want the famous viewpoints: take the west island trip. Only one day and you would rather be in the sea: take the snorkelling package. You have been to the west before, or you want the island without the queues: take the east island trip.

The special package is the one to book if you cannot choose. It is the only one that puts snorkelling and the west-side landmarks in the same day, which is why it costs more than the others.

All four start with a hotel pickup on the Bali side and a return fast boat, and all four include lunch, entrance tickets and an English-speaking guide on the island. You are not buying boat tickets at the harbour or paying at each gate.

Roads on Nusa Penida are narrow and often steep. The stops listed for each package are what fits comfortably in a day with the boat times; adding more is usually a way to spend the day in a car.